Day 12 - Wednesday 27th May
I was quite excited to have the opportunity to get out and explore and found myself awake and functioning before 6am. Crazy, I know! So after several coffees and a quick recheck of my bag, I was soon boarding the number 87 bus to the Bus Terminal where I would catch my bus to Suzhou.
I managed to negotiate for a ticket and was feeling quite pleased with myself as I passed through security. I flashed my ticket at the security policeman who told me '2', which I took to be Gate 2. There were a number of people making their way through that gate, so I walked up with my ticket in hand, all ready for my big adventure!!! The lady at the gate took a glance, picked up her handy megaphone and began shouting at me in Chinese, making shooing signals with her hand. I had no idea what was going on, so I stepped away and stood there looking baffled and lost like only an Aussie girl in a Chinese Bus Station can.
A young couple noticed my distress and beckoned me over and pointed out on the ticket that my departure time wasn't for another 45 mins. Thank God for the kindness of strangers!
So I took a seat with the milling crowds and took this handy photo of the said ticket whilst I patiently waited...
Soon it was very close to departure time and I warily approached the lady with the megaphone. Fortunately, this time she smiled and scanned my ticket whilst I eyed off the megaphone, still within her arm's reach, my ears still ringing.
With a sign of abject relief, I made my way through the gate and boarded a rather nifty looking double-decker bus! Joy! The front seat up the top was empty and 'figuratively' had my name on it. I'm such a tourist!
It really is another world here...
Arriving in Suzhou, I cannot express the elation I felt when I realised I had found myself right at the Bus Terminal I was aiming for!!!
I had had my eye on a budget hotel just over the river from this location, just a short walk...the website said so!
Umm...after taking a bit of a reconnaissance around the station, I could in no way find my way across the river. I did ask a few people, but I'm not sure if they had any idea what I was saying to them. They just kept pointing me back in the direction I had been walking. Oh well.
I found some stairs. I couldn't see any better options at this point, so I went down. I walked a bit. I asked another person, this one in uniform with a gun. This time I was encouraged forward...
Must be doing something right.
Alas. Here I have found myself at a taxi stand. Well, here's one way to get across the river...
Unfortunately, the the details of the hotel I was headed for were in English. Hey, Booking.com, maybe with your new update you could have translations of hotel names and addresses available for lost travellers like myself... Just saying!
The taxi guy just looked at me blankly when I showed him the hotel details on my phone. He had nothin'. Hey, wait! Step aside for the Chinese man who can communicate his destination please... Oh! Here comes the MAN! He can speak English. I am saved!!!!!
After a little bit of negotiation, I found myself on my way...and then pulling up at the hotel. They weren't kidding about how close it was... Kill me now!
And here we are...
But at least I made it. I lucked out with a young lady at the front counter who was on shift who actually spoke a little English. I hadn't made the booking yet and managed to be able to inspect the two levels of rooms I was looking at and choose the one I preferred.
The first one was a bit smelly in a sewer kind of way, so I inevitably went with what was behind door number 2. I was not unhappy.
Basic but clean... Complete with aircon and wifi.
...and my own bathroom 😀
Somewhere to lay my hat.. Or rather my poncho! And a computer to boot! (Travel hack - when your electronic plugs don't fit {I can't believe Google lied to me!!!}, a handy TV or Computer is bound to have a USB port so at least your phone/iPad/battery pack can be charged!)
So once unpacked, it was time to hit the streets and explore...
I really liked Suzhou! I found it very touristy but quite picturesque.
I wandered upon one of the place I did want to visit..The Humble Administrator's Garden. I opted out with hiring an English-speaking guide from amongst the touts prowling around the entrance and decided to enjoy it on my own. I'm really glad I did. Even though there was probably lots of historical facts I missed out on, I rather enjoyed the tranquility of viewing and interpreting it all for myself....
Yes, gardens. But very pretty.
I could get lost in here...
The Bonsai Garden:
After a decent wander around, I decided to patron one on the businesses inside that I stumbled upon and enjoyed a lovely (never-ending) cup of rose tea. A man approached me and pointing to where some instruments were sitting inside the room, placing a book of poetry before me. I found myself reading a translation of songs of Souzhou. Soon after, the gentleman and a lady who had been sitting in the corner began to play...
It was hauntingly beautiful and I believe he was singing the words I had just been reading.
Feeling refreshed, I made my way out of the gardens, in search of my next adventure. The English-speaking tour guide who had approached me about the English tour of the garden came up to me again and asked if I wanted to go on a canal tour. Ahhh...yes I do. I didn't tell her this straight away. She offered me additions tours and her best price... assuring me that I could come back any time I liked...
I canal tour with optional extras for less than $A20...ok.
She led me to her kiosk where I exchanged cash for paper and then took me around to a bus depot and told me to hop on. Ok. As I made my way to an empty seat, I spotted an obviously western-looking lady. I said 'hello' ... She replied with ...'bonjour' Hmmmm
very soon after I boarded, I rather dapper young Chinese man climbed aboard with a headset to go and we were off. What followed was a monologue from said dapper Chinese dude completely in Chinese. I noticed the French lady laughed at the appropriate times, so I figured I was really on my own here.
I was admiring the passing Suzhou views when I noticed it was starting to rain. Oh well. We pulled up at another obvious bus depot and all disembarked. French lady was well involved in Chinese conversation with her Chinese companion...
We made our way towards the boats but not before a lengthy stop in a tunnel, when the Chinese guide expounded about said wonderful tunnel. Whilst all the Chinese linguists oohed and aaahed, I slunk off to admire the rain.
Ok. We headed off to the 'Dragon Boats'. Let me say here that Chinese people don't line up. If you've ever caught a plane to Asia, you would know this. If not, just trust me on this.
Dragon boats:
Note: murky waters.
Whilst trying not to be manhandled directly into the murky waters, I managed to exert enough initiative to make my way on to the boat, and even before the French woman made it aboard. Ha!
I will say that I quite enjoyed the boat tour of the canal. I have absolutely no idea what the tour guide was saying and I tried to not be concerned with an ooh or an aah but I rather enjoyed when we passed under a bridge and the water splashed up into the open windows. It didn't bother me...I thought the boat could have done with some air-conditioning. The chick two seats down from me wasn't as impressed. At least I didn't need Chinese to interpret that!
So we finished the Dragon Boat tour . Next, we were hearded back on to the tour bus. Hey! It was raining!
We travelled along, with dapper dude providing commentary...thank God for the playlist on my phone...
Suddenly, we were at our next location. Oh goody! The Silk Museum. What followed was my attempt to abandon the tour. I asked dapper dude if he spkenEnglish. He said 'little'. 'How much taxi back to Pinjiang Street? (Where we started)' '¥20' Ok! I make my way out to the front of the Silk Miseum, to enquire of one of the many taxi drivers milling around. '¥60...long way'
No! I paid ¥80 for the tour. No way am I paying almost as much to get back, so I wandered back into the Silk Museum for a little look. This where things for a little weird. I thought I had caught up to my group, who were enjoying a demo on Silk Production... All in Chinese of course.
I stood there trying to look like I had a clue as to what was going on when I glanced around me and realised I'd LOST MY ASIANS!!! I was now standing with some other random tour group. I had no idea where they might be, so I took myself off through the museum on my own little tour. I did get some questioning glances from some of the staff but no one wanted to challenge the foreigner so I enjoyed unfettered access throughout.
I still couldn't see my group or the dapper guide...or the French lady! So I went back to the entrance where the buses were parked. I think the one second from the end was the one we arrived on. It was in a line of about 12, of which many soon filled with contented Chinese tourists and departed, only to be replaced by another bus load.
Oh well. I just sat there, being stared at by milling groups. I was especially interesting to the children - who would hide their mouths behind their hands and giggle. Yes, very funny!
I waited. Hey I think that guy who just walked out looks familiar. ...or maybe not. Definitely an exercise in patience for me. Thank you China!
Finally, after I started thinking I'd somehow missed them, I spotted the French lady and Dapper Guy!!! Hooray. I was saved!
We all tromped back on the bus and the guide started his rant in Chinese again. Wait a minute! 'Booo' (or a Chinese approximation) started echoing around the bus. I looked away in hope from the torrential rain splashing against my window. Maybe we were going back to the depot due to inclement weather! Great news!!!! I perked up in my seat and even had a little grin for the lady openly staring at me from across the aisle.
You would not believe my utter dismay when it wasn't the familiar Pinjiang St bus parking that we pulled into but the freaking Pear Museum. Now I understood the booing. Kill me now!
Time for a little self-pep talk. Hey I'm in China and what harm can come from a little (pearl) culture? - see what I did there? - so I sprinted through the rain and followed my Asians, and token French lady, into another entrance hall...only to have dapper dude ushering all and sundry into a dark theatre. I could hear the Chinese intro from outside the door.
I panicked! No way. I had endured hours of listening to a language I have virtually no understanding of. I was not going to sit in a tiny dark theatre for probably another 20 minutes of torture! Followed by the likely incidence of me losing my group again and the resultant stress of that.
I indicated to dapper dude I was leaving. I strolled out like a woman in control of my destiny, albeit in a drowned rat sort of way, and made my way to the nearby busy road. Ahhh a bus stop! Now to work out which bus I should take to get at least within walking distance of my hotel.
I looked at the timetable board. It was all Chinese to me. I decided to throw caution to the wind and try to ask a well-dressed woman also waiting for a bus. She had no idea what I was saying but I showed her a map in my phone and she pointed to bus 230, and counted across 18 stops. Oh goody. We waited for probably about 40 minutes, watching all the other bus numbers go by, some multiple times, I'm sure! By this time I was missing my Chinese Tour.
Finally, the right bus pulled up and the lady with the directions also hopped on this bus. So off we went. I could sort of track where I was on my phone, but due to using a VPN, the location wasn't very accurate, but we were going in the right direction so all was good.
...an hour later, the lady started yelling at waving at me to get off the bus. Ok. I got off and at this moment my map and location tracker completely failed me. I had no idea where I was!!!! I certainly wasn't near my hotel. Obviously something got lost in translation with the helpful lady. There was a subway station, which I paced with rue for a while about my cozy but annoying Chinese Tour Bus. I'd be back at the hotel and in dry clothes by now!!!
I kept telling myself what an adventure I was on - how great it was to be completely lost in a city I had no clue how to communicate in...yeah right! I was wet and tired and missed English. Good times!
I saw a decently dressed young man who perhaps is a student and approached him asking him if he could help me get a bus to Pinjiang Street. With the help of his limited English and maps, he was quickly looking up bus timetables on his phone. When he started saying take such and such a bus and then....
I said 'taxi?'
He nodded, obviously looking a bit closer at me.
Next thing I knew, he had flagged down a cab and I was sailing away waving fervently at my young hero...right into peak hour traffic!
So anyway, 40 RMB poorer, I made it back to my hotel (always a good idea to grab the hotel's business card for such a mement!!).
Showered and refreshed, I wandered a few doors down to a lovely bowl of noodles and a rather large beer. I deserved it!
Don't get me wrong. I had an awesome day! 😃